Getting from Pai to Luang Prabang can be described in only one word: mission. And a mission that takes three days, no less, which is most frustrating for the traveller who feels like the time in their current destination is melting away faster than a snowman on a sunny day.
One morning on a lovely private air-conditioned bus took us back to Chiang Mai followed by seven hours on a horribly sweaty, plastic-chaired public bus to Chiang Khong; a town that, with good reason, travellers only come to with the sole purpose of leaving as soon as possible, over the river to Laos. On day two we took this very journey across the Mekong River that, at this point, separates these two countries. Border control, though unusually scenic, was typically chaotic. By midday, we, along with approximately two hundred other backpackers, we crammed like sardines into two, aptly named, “slow-boats” that after much waiting around (we have learned that nothing happens fast in Laos), headed, oh so slowly, for Luang Prabang. This journey down the river takes two days (including overnight stop in Pakbeng), and is generally the preferred method of transportation amongst travellers, favoured over the sweaty seventeen hour bus journey and six hour speed-boat ride that has been reported, on occasion, to end in the death of one of its passengers. We opted not to take that risk, and though slow, it was pleasant enough to drift down the very beautiful Mekong, past mountains, jungles and those little Lao villages that sit quietly among them.
Whilst on the slow boat, we met a couple who, though have considerable years on us, are backpacking through South East Asia. They recounted to us the familiar experience of quitting their jobs (albeit for them it happened in 1970), and the less familiar, but equally appealing, act of buying a Volkswagen bug and caravan and driving from England to India. The cogs in my head started turning. Could we do that? We were, just a few days ago, enviously eyeing up the multitude of VW Campers parked around Pai (one of our many dreams). The route might be a little more roundabout these days, but what a truly awesome experience it would be!
Before we came on this trip, I feared travel and all the difficulties that come with it, but my desire to see the world was strong, and, ultimately, won out over those fears. Though difficulty does, occasionally, rear its ugly head, I know now that there is little to be afraid of. This world is full of treasures – most that are to be experienced and enjoyed, and a few that are yet to be discovered. Now that the fear is gone, the desire to see more of the world intensifies and, on occasion, overwhelms me. The possibilities seem endless and our list of desired destinations substantial. Will this lifetime be long enough to experience all that our hearts hope for? I fear maybe not.
Arriving in Luang Prabang on the evening of the third day we breathed a sigh of relief. Albeit, we realised in hindsight, prematurely, for the task of trying to find accommodation in a not very big, but VERY popular town is not an experience I would choose to repeat. Though the second biggest place in Laos, it has a population of only 30,000 (who, in the midst of all the tourists, you would be hard-pushed to get a glimpse of), and we quickly realised that this sumptuous town was somewhat lacking in backpacker budget accommodation. Though beautiful, it is difficult to see much evidence of real Lao life amongst the shutter-adorned buildings, luxurious restaurants, elegant coffee shops and pricey patisseries. It did, however, have the most incredible night market; very possibly the most beautiful we have seen throughout our time in Asia. Such a magnificent and colourful display of textiles that it made me go weak at the knees; I had to muster all the self-control in my possession to restrain myself from splurging. We did, however, indulge ourselves in the purchase of two hand-embroidered cushion covers for our (currently imaginary) future home. So bright in palette they may well not match with any sofa we should eventually choose to buy, but they will still be a lovely little reminder of our time in Laos.
Luang Prabang is renowned for captivating travellers into staying many days longer than they had originally intended, although, on this occasion, we were not among them. Though undoubtedly beautiful, we felt in want a more authentic Lao experience, and so, after four days, we packed our bags once again, and headed south.
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