Sunday, 6 March 2011

An (unexpected) home from home


Having decided to revolt against Lonely Planet, we entered Malaysia with a very alien Rough Guides travel book, the unfamiliarity of which meant that neither of us had bothered to actually read it.  In fact, we knew so little about our newest destination that it took us almost 24 hours to realise that we had entered a new time zone.  (Fortunately our ignorance did not have any serious repercussions).  

Despite a lack of pre-conceived ideas (which sometimes, I have discovered, can be a positive thing), Malaysia is still not at all how I expected it would be.  Though in such close proximity to its northern neighbour, Thailand, it somehow looks and feels different in every respect.  With its British plug sockets, sleek motorways, abundance of Shell garages and English speaking residents, Malaysia’s past British presence is still in such strong evidence that it feels less like a history and more like a heritage that has been engrained into their culture, both past and present.

The first stop on our Malaysian itinerary is Georgetown, a fascinating city that boasts the most incredible mix of architecture and cultural variety, which, in my opinion, justifies its UNESCO World Heritage status.  Its’ beautiful buildings are, unsurprisingly, reminiscent of colonial Britain, amongst which lie smatterings of pastel-coloured European town houses, lantern-adorned Chinese shop fronts and Bollywood movie theatres.  It is truly a treat for the eyes, and I cannot stop taking photographs.  As well as the local Malays, there are large populations of both Chinese and Indians which makes for a remarkable mix of dining possibilities, and we have discovered since arriving here that Indian food for breakfast is in a taste bud league that, before now, was only occupied by Vietnamese Pho.  Cereal and toast as an alternative seem truly dull in comparison, and such culinary delights are, undoubtedly, what I will miss the most when we depart for Australia.

Though aesthetically enchanting, our enjoyment of Georgetown was slightly marred by its overwhelming 35 degree temperatures.  Since leaving Scotland, I have developed a newfound appreciation for the chilly temperatures of home, and so it was with some relief that we departed for the Cameron Highlands which, because of its altitude, sits at a much more comfortable 25 degrees.  As a result of its cool climate and daily rain showers, the landscape looks much more like that of Scotland, and being surrounded by mountains and pine trees came as a welcome reminder of home during a spell of homesickness.  

During Malaysia’s days of British occupation, those Brits who, like me, were unable to handle the equatorial heat and humidity flocked to the Cameron Highlands, inflicting their Britishness on unsuspecting Malays with their golf and scones.  One afternoon we treated ourselves to high tea at “Ye Olde Smokehouse”, a quintessentially British experience that would have been more at home in the countryside of Gloucestershire than on the “moors” of Malaysia.  But jolly good scones nonetheless!

Our time here was mostly spent hiking through moss-covered forests and playing Scrabble in our hostel, and was a refreshing break from vibrant towns and energetic cities.   One day we went to a tea plantation, the view of which is maybe the most beautiful I have ever been privilege to.  Sipping tea, looking out over luscious rolling green hills was both good for the eyes and the soul, and I felt so deliciously content.

Though sad that this time in Asia is fast approaching its end, we feel quite ready for the next stage of our trip.  Three months of always being on the move has left us exhausted, and we are looking forward to some time spent relaxing in the company of some of Phil’s relatives.  We realise that it is not the 9 to 5 regularity of home that we miss, but instead the little luxuries that so often we take for granted.  Home-cooked dinners; hot water washing machines; lying on the couch watching movies; drinking good wine with friends and family.  These are the things that we treasure and long for the familiarity of.  Seeing this amazing world is an incredible privilege, but being in the presence of the people you love is just as much of a privilege, and one that I am learning to appreciate more and more every day.

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