Au revoir mon ami...

We were sad to leave Cambodia.  Of the three countries we have visited so far, it was by far our favourite, and my heart is hopeful that we will have reason to return some day.

Thailand is brown, at least, in my first glimpse of it.  As though someone has burnt all the leaves and all that remains are the soil and the twigs.  It so amazes me how these countries we are passing through, this time heading for Bangkok, sit in such close proximity to each other, yet have given birth to such diverse landscapes.

We really didn't take to Bangkok.  Having expected it to be something of an assault on the senses we found it to be strangely silent in comparison to China, Vietnam and even chilled out Cambodia.  Walking down street after street in an attempt to explore, we found a whole lot of nothing worth seeing; a city full of sparkly temples but void of personality.  The famed Khao San Road, renamed "backpacker road"by some, is despised by those who prefer to avoid the beaten track, and rightly so.  With those days of guzzling vodka cocktails well in our past, we felt isolated from the "peers" that surrounded us - drunk white twenty-somethings in search of a small piece of the world and a big party. Having anticipated a four day stay we left after just two, on the night train to Chiang Mai, capital of the North.

Chiang Mai is located in the heart of the mountains, and though a big city, it has the laid back vibe of a much smaller place.  Our fairy light filled guesthouse was the perfect place to rest and in the surrounding streets we enjoyed all that Chiang Mai has to offer; ate good food, relaxed in quirky coffee shops, browsed elegant art galleries, wandered through the night markets, chatted with monks and even had our first Thai massage (of the legitimate nature, I hasten to add).  Famed as the handicraft centre of northern Thailand, we spent our first day apart since the start of our travels, so that I could visit as many craft shops as I so pleased without Phil going crazy with boredom.  Chiang Mai has certainly left my backpack a little fuller!

On our third day we treated ourselves to an all day Thai cooking course at an organic farm 30km from the city centre.  It was such a peaceful and beautiful setting, and the perfect environment for learning the secrets to Thailand's culinary delights.  The result was the most delicious lunch and very contented bellies.

Leaving Chiang Mai the following day, we headed off on a three day trek through the mountains of Don Inthanon National Park.  After so much time travelling from city to city, it felt wonderfully refreshing to find ourselves back in the wilderness.  Hiking between hill tribe villages through luscious jungle, surrounded by the sounds of waterfalls and grasshoppers, gave us the opportunity to meditate on everything we have seen and learnt on this journey, and contemplate what is yet to come.  Our pint-sized guide, Pot, fancied himself the comedian and so we laughed much, and with our group enjoyed two nights under the stars, huddled round a roaring log fire sharing travel stories.  Both relaxed and exhausted, we returned to Chiang Mai in anticipation of a hot shower and comfy bed.  In the reality of traveller life this was, instead, a luke warm shower and mediocre, slighty lumpy, bed, but after three days in the jungle, neither has ever felt so good.