To the temples... (part 2)

The first day we headed to Angkor I had butterflies of excitement fluttering around my stomach.  The sun has just risen and it was a beautiful day.  Finally we were going to set foot in Cambodia's pride and joy!  But in truth, Angkor Wat, famous though it is, was somewhat of a disappointment.  The architectural mastery and intricate craftsmanship that the temple displays are, undoubtedly, spectacular, but the huge amount of scaffolding and hordes of tourists largely detract from the wonder of this magnificent building.  And having detached ourselves from any spiritual experience, it was just that; a building.  The faces of Bayon and wild Ta Prohm, both of which we visited with less expectation than with Angkor Wat, we found to be far more fascinating.  Although still too many tourists.

Arches, Angkor Wat	Angkor Wat
Bayon	Ta Prohm

Our second visit proved more successful. Braving the early morning, we arrived at Prohm Bakheng to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat. Watching the burning ball of red rise from the mist into a cloudless sky was both beautiful and peaceful, and worth the 4.30am wake up. It was a cooler day, which made cycling from temple to temple a pleasure in itself, as the scenery surrounding Angkor is stunning and a refreshing break from the city. The high point of the day was Preah Kahn. At 7am it was virtually empty, the quietness of which adds so much to the experience. The partially ruined temple was stunning, and exploring its maze of passageways in the dewy morning light was truly serene. Later, over delicious vegetarian curry and Angkor beers, we agreed that it had been the unrivaled highlight of our time at the temples.

Preah Kahn

On our final evening in Siem Reap, we cycled back to Angkor one final time, and in the last few hours of daylight walked around the imposing walls of Angkor Wat. Just before the sun set, we headed into the temple grounds, and in the silent glow of dusk were, finally, fully able to appreciate this spectacular masterpiece in all its glory.

An uncomfortable but scenic boat ride past floating villages took us to Battambang, our final Cambodian destination. Lonely Planet's description of it as a charming, colonial riverside town is disappointingly misguided, but the two days in this decidedly boring place has given us a chance to rest and plan the next leg of our adventure - Thailand.